_modzzz_articles_page_title_browse_letter RSS2018-07-05T00:39:00+0000Trip 24/06/2018 Yak Check, Coquihalla Pass with Pav I.For this route I found lots of pics online but the pitch by pitch description we had was pre-bolting of the belays. This is the topo we used, it has all the anchors and it’s accurate to date: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/113415760 In our case we used all the intermediate belays X.5 (except the first)  on a 60m rope even extending most placements, maybe the rope was a bit too short…although in some cases as for pitch 8/8.5/9 I don’t imagine that working by quite a margin. Checking the details of the pics we roped up and started climbing at 9.30 am topped out at 4.30pm and arrived to the car at 6.30pm. During the climb we stopped to drink water and check the topo but otherwise climbed pretty consistently without long breaks, after reaching the top we stopped to have a snack and finish our water maybe 15/20min or so in terms of ascent/descent times. P1 From where the pic was taken went up this 5.6 corner and once on the ledge traverse left to the first belay 0.5 and keep going left (not much pro but low 5th until belay 1), this line is the right most of the three variations of the topo and seemed the obvious one at the time. With our 60m rope and clipping with an double shoulder length draw that 0.5 belay I ended 2 meters short of this belay. Probably with the left start would’ve arrived. 60m 5.6 P2 From the belay left up the corner (protects with two small cams) on the only place that looks feasible and up into a finger to hands crag to a bolted belay on the right of the crag. 5.7 40m P3 Continue up this crag, amazing climbing on a great hands crag I think its 5.6 climbing at its best, you have to battle going through a bush/tree don’t bother slinging it as the anchor is just a few meters afterwards and youll force your partner to battle the branches as well. Double bolt belay at right side of crag. 5.6 35/30m P4 Keep going up the crag, then layback the corner up to the ledge, that would a great place for ... Read more

]]>2018-07-05T00:39:00+0000On holiday Monday, four of us traveled to Yak Peak to climb two of the popular granite routes. While Cormac and Adi climbed Yak Check, Cynthia and I made our way up the route called "Seven One-Move Wonders Of the World" (SOMWOW)... a 5.7+ 15-pitch slab route. Overall is was a fun route and a great day of climbing :-) Yak Peak - "Seven One Move Wonders of the World" route Bottom of pitch 1. Looking back on pitch 1. Lower pitch... mid-5th Lower pitch... mid-5th Middle pitches were allabout 55m long & runout. Pitch 9. Water at the bolt station forced us to build one. Pitch 10 Top of pitch 11 Looking up at pitch 12 Near top of pitch 12. Looking up at pitch 13. This was thecrux section and was more polishedand than the other sections (5.7+). Summit photo of Cynthia.   Most pitches were more runout than I'd expected. Cynthia is a good climber but preferred to second all the runnout pitches... so I lead almost every pitch. Total climbing time was about 8hrs and we were a tired by the time we reached the summit. For comparison, if you've lead "Over the Rainbow" on the Squamish Apron then SOMWOW will seem relatively easy... if it's dry. Check the Mountain Project website for an excellent description of this route: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/somwow---seven-one-move-wonders-of-the-world/106863038.... Read more

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