A great article by AAI guide Mike Pond. He goes over what are the essential tips for having fun and being safe ice climbing.
http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2012/04/pro-tips-ice-climbing.html
Let...
The next website committee meeting has been posted as a trip here: https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1365548670
A good video from one of the best crack climbers around...
http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/how-to-tape-for-crack-climbing-video/
Here at BD we are all a bunch of tinkerers. We’re constantly tweaking our gear or cobbling together prototypes, trying to make them lighter and perform better. We fiddle with gear, test it in the lab...
On Thursday, January 17, 2013 a party with a total group size of 12 was ascending Central Gully in Huntington Ravine when one rope team triggered a soft slab avalanche from the top of the route. The a...
Very interesting interview regarding ice screw strength, etc...
http://www.chickswithpicks.net/gear-2/kitty-calhoun-interview-with-bill-belcourt-of-black-diamond-with-michael-kennedy-jack-tackle-a...
Lots of good advice and links on ice climbing skills and techniques...
http://coldthistle.blogspot.ca/2011/01/ice-climbing-skills-and-techniques.html?m=1
Cool to see Whiteman Falls. Francis, Adrian and I climbed it in Mar last year. It was in soft conditions last season at about WI5. It's a great climb. I would love to do Red Man Soars right beside it,...
Cool post about an afternoon ascent of Repentance... http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/2013/01/03/first-day-of-winter/
Great video of Steve House soloing the climbs... http://vimeo.com/229933...
Tips from Petzl for protecting your equipment
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/both/protecting-equipment-tips_EN.pdf
Some good advice and a primer on how to get more comfortable with falling...
There is a wonderful feeling of freedom when you can run it out above gear, climbing as hard as you can, totally consume...
Here are two books I think cover ice climbing really well:
Will Gadd: http://www.amazon.ca/Ice-Mixed-Climbing-Modern-Technique/dp/089886769X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356899545&sr=8-2
Gresham and P...
Worth checking out if you listen to podcasts and enjoy stories/history from some great climbers...
The American Alpine Club Story Project
https://itunes.apple.com/ca/podcast/american-alpine-club-...
Pretty funny when his partner is giving him a hard time for being a wimp. I know too well how much the hot aches hurt. Ah... the joys of winter climbing.
Kevin Jorgeson started climbing at age 12. He hasn't stopped since. Kevin is known for high level boulder problems and free climbs across the world, from California to New Hampshire to South Africa. J...
From http://access-society.ca/articles/future-of-fixed-anchors...
Future of Fixed Anchors
written Friday, December 14, 2012
by Peter Winter
From the Access Fund: http://www.opengate.org/access...
Here is a great video on climbing bold replacement.
Steve House solos two hard NE ice climbs.
http://vimeo.com/22993356
Repentance, Remission from Granite Films Jim Surette on Vimeo.
Smash & Grab - An Ascent of Burkett Needle from Dave Burdick on Vimeo.
Here is a pretty good video and article on training for climbing. It's pretty hardcore, but quite clear and helpful. Not sure how many folks want to train this hard, but a few will. :-)
From http:/...
Surprising review by Andy Kirkpatrick who seems to love the Totem cams. Andy is a real hardman with incredible experience, so it's worth taking a look.
From: http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/vie...
Amazing Video from Sherpa Cinema. Really different and interesting.
Into The Mind - Official Teaser from Sherpas Cinema on Vimeo.
Here is a good method for getting strong when there is no ice nearby. Note the figure 4 with big reach - crucial for making big moves on a mixed route. Obviously this doesn't help with the challenge o...