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Trip Report

Cliff, Win, Connor, Bala, Oudi, Brian (me) climbed Bakers North Ridge. Leaving Saturday morning we met at the trailhead at 10am and headed up to set up camp on the football field below the Black Butte. We were joined by a second larger BCMC trip heading the Coleman Demming. It was a hot, hot weekend not a cloud in the sky. After a quick dinner and a lot of chit chat with the other group we all crashed about 8pm. 12:15am we rose to a beautiful starry night and set out across the crevasse fields. With out too much trouble we got across those as recent snow had them fairly well covered and the night being cooler the snow was firm. At about 6am we started ascending the North Ridge. reaching the the key ice step a single pitch going anywhere from a WI2+ to WI6 depending where you want to climb. Here the party split into two with Connor leading Oudi & Win up a classic WI4 and Bala taking the second team up a WI3 alpine route (rocks, bad ice etc.) We both topped out onto 50+ degree snow slope and did running belays to the top where we met up again. Solid leads by both Bala and Connor were impressive. From there we hiked down the Coleman Deming to get back to camp about 5pm. Sorted the gear and headed down the mountain. A couple of notes

1) When climbing with Bala please allot time for meet and greets. Everyone knows Bala, Bala knows everyone. (Will Gadd stopped to talk with us "read Bala" last trip)

2) Any BCMC member who happened to ski past us on the decent down CD. Next time be a decent mountaineer and pick up a hitchhiker

3) I don't care how much sunscreen/lip balm you have it isn't enough pack more.

4) be careful things dropped on the north ridge will slide to the parking lot (anyone need a left handed glove just 1) and just because it is dark out when  you get up make sure you grab your sunglasses (thanks again Connor) 

Finally I would recommend any of these partners for any trip they are solid climbers and an easy going group.

Photos
the group the ice step in the background
_the group the ice step in the background
https://bcmc.ca/m/photos/get_image/file/f195359459e895dde87928033b92d77e.jpg
https://bcmc.ca/m/photos/get_image/file/0b21bcdedbb67ef4eec37c08b8409be2.jpg
Trip Reporter
27.06.2016 (573 Days Ago)
Trip Report TitleBaker North Ridge
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