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Trip Report

As the alpine season is nearing its end, we took advantage of the sunny and relatively warm forecast to check out this classic peak that we had heard so many both encouraging and deterrent things about. The crew assembled with a good mix of experience, but even so we cautiously budgeted extra time. We scoped out the mamquam fsr in an effort to avoid paying steep gondola prices but construction work on a bridge quickly shut us down and we returned to the gondola. After the breathtaking gondola ride, we hiked around 2 hours to the planned camp site halfway between the end of the valley trail and the glacier that was surrounded by empty blueberry bushes. After dinner our eyes were glued to the sky which was full of stars that had us in awe and talking philosophically. At one point we witnessed a stream of perfectly spaced white orbs fly across the sky, which was very unsettling as we could not explain this phenomenon. We later found out it was the starlink satellite network but we still maintain it was an alien species here to make contact with earth. The following day we started up the mountain around 7:30 and soon arrived at the glacier which was bare of snow. The blue ice made for an interesting glacier crossing as we gained the ridge and continued on until the famed pink slab. When we arrived it looked manageable although as promised it is extremely exposed even if the climbing is easy. After some hesitation, some of us ascended without packs to set up a rope to belay the others and to haul up the packs we left behind. We then regrouped and followed the trail behind the giant rock pyramid and found the scrambling to be quite enjoyable, not hard enough to be scary but hard enough not to be boring. Less than an hour later we were standing on the summit trading high fives and enjoying the view. We were a little behind schedule at this point but the generous time buffers allowed us to enjoy some lunch and take photos before the descent. We made use of the bolts at the two crux pitches on the way down and set up rappels which made our lives a lot easier and safer. Some people momentarily lost the trail and found themselves scrambling in sketchy terrain but with some course correction they quickly found their way again. We retraced our steps down the glacier and back to our campsite where we packed up and continued towards the gondola. There was some confusion as to what time the last download was but we ended up making it with plenty of time to spare. We were exhausted at the bottom having been on the move for around 12 hours, so to finish off the trip we went out for burgers in Squamish to regain our strength. 

Photos
Sky Pilot Sept 22'
_Sky Pilot Sept 22'
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Trip Reporter
04.10.2022 (54 Days Ago)
Trip Report TitleSky Pilot Sept 22'
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