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Trip Information
Name: Rock Mentorship Program -- completion
Starts: Sun Sep 15, 2013
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Sep 15, 2013

Registration opens: Sat Apr 20, 2013
Event category: Instructional Program
Difficulty grade: B-C 5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 7

Organizer: Francis St Pierre
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Questions to Applicants:

1. What is your rock climbing background and experience (single and multi-pitch)? In particular, what grade do you lead and follow (give examples of memorable climbs for each)?

2. What are your longer term climbing goals? What climbs are on your longer-term tick list?

3. Why do you wish to participate in the BCMC mentorship Program? What routes are you interested in climbing as part of the Program (specify if leading or following)?

4. Do you have a preference on which Mentor you wish to climb with (see Mentor list)?

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Participant Information

 (Apply by May 31) Applicants have been selected

What?    A unique opportunity for less experienced members (Participants) to climb more challenging multi-pitch rock routes with a more experienced member (Mentor) for 2 days.

Mentors?    A small group of experienced rock climbers, each willing to donate 2 days of their time through July, August, or September, has agreed to participate as Mentors. A Mentor will be assigned one Participant to coach on suitable climbs. Scroll through the list of Mentors to find one suitable for your skills and interests: 

BCMC Rock Mentor Adrian Lazar

Adrian Lazar
Climbing has been a passion of mine since I was a kid. I enjoy a mixed bag of exciting climbs in the alpine (5.10-), the crag (5.10+; The Chief), and sport (5.11). I would be happy to take a participant on some iconic routes (Squamish, Coquihalla, North Shore) and show them the dark arts of safe climbing.
BCMC Rock Mentor Adrian Burke Adrian Burke
After 22 years of climbing rock, ice and mountains, I've grown a passion for climbing long, multi-pitch alpine routes. I lead comfortably up to trad 5.10+. My goal is to mentor someone with existing trad experience, who is looking to expand that to multi-pitch trad. Skills you'll improve include gear anchors, rope management, dealing with exposure and strategies for moving efficiently over multi-pitch terrain.
BCMC Rock Mentor Joe Wong Joe Wong
I love climbing and volunteer with both the BCMC and VRCG (Vancouver Rock Climbing Group). I do bouldering, sport, trad, multipitch and ice climbing. I generally avoid alpine climbing with long approaches. I'm a solid 5.10+ lead climber and my favorite routes include overhanging jug hauling. I enjoy creating and being in a climbing atmosphere where friends support each other to make their climbing goals happen... then discuss it over good food afterward.
BCMC Rock Mentor Valery Milner Valery Milner
Climbing for about 20 years; trad, sport and bouldering; prefer slower pace and shorter routes (4 to 8 pitches) with challenging cruxes. Would be happy to help a participant in this Program to either lead or follow anything up to 5.11.
BCMC Rock Mentor Anders Ourom Anders Ourom
I’ve been climbing, and a member of the BCMC, since 1971. Most kinds of climbing. When I learned to climb, and since, I had the benefit of climbing with others with more skill and experience, often something like mentors, and I’ve always tried to do the same for others. Mostly on an informal basis, but also through BCMC programs, and as a certified climbing instructor in Norway. It’s important to me that those involved not only practice skills, but that they gain some perspective on the history, culture and environment of climbing. As has been said, you see further when you stand on the shoulders of others, in climbing as in many other things. In the case of climbing, by taking responsibility for yourself, and others.
BCMC Rock Mentor Lee Purvis Lee Purvis
I have been climbing for 20 years. I focus primarily on multi-pitch trad climbing, alpine rock, and ice climbing. I am comfortable leading up to 5.10 trad. My passion is to move fast and safely over big terrain, completing long multi-pitch climbs. In the Mentorship Program, I would like to help someone become more efficient and confident at multi-pitch climbing and moving efficiently through many pitches of climbing. I can help with gear placement, anchors, fast switch-overs, french-free, etc. Candidate climbs can range from Diedre to Angel’s Crest to Grand Wall. I would prefer a member who leads on gear and wants to improve.

BCMC Rock Mentor Francis St-Pierre

Francis St-Pierre
Climbing for over 30 years and love climbing in all its forms. From high-altitude mountaineering to trad and sport cragging to alpine rock and ice climbing. I’m comfortable leading 5.9 to low 10’s, and have lead hundreds of multi-pitch routes in a wide variety of settings and rock type. I like to focus on efficiency to allow climbing up to 20 or more pitches a day. In the Mentorship Program, I would like to help a less experienced member gain more confidence on multi-pitch climbs, whether leading or seconding.


Participants?    The program is ideally suited for participants who can lead 5.7 to 5.9 trad routes and follow up to 5.9 or 5.10’s (there may be an opportunity for one 5.10/11 Participant). What's important isn't so much how hard you can climb, but how keen you are in improving and stretching your climbing abilities. As a Participant, you will establish specific goals for the 2 days with your Mentor, but the general goals are to have fun, climb safely, and expand your multi-pitch rock climbing skills and speed.

Routes?    Harder routes that are a stretch for you to follow, or slightly easier routes that are a stretch for you to lead. You will discuss and select the route with your Mentor. Multi-pitch routes on the Apron, the Chief, North Walls, South gully, as well as longer alpine rock routes are all good candidates. Example for the keener: Rock On and Ultimate Everything in one day in July, then Angel’s Crest (or Yak Check) in one day in August. For the more moderate climber: Diedre and the Butt Face in July; Calculus Crack, Karen's Math and Memorial Crack in August; or mix it up with SOMWOW in a day (15 pitches of slab up to 5.7+ up Yak peak). There are so many options and sweet multi-pitch climbs out there that we can't list them all.

Apply?    BCMC members can apply to be one of 7 Participants in the Rock Mentorship Program. You must apply on-line by May 31, 2013. In early June, Mentors will select Participants based on the answers to the 4 questions and fit with Mentors. Results will be announced at the June 11 BCMC Social and by email to Applicants. 

$$$    The cost for each Participant is $125 upon being selected. Participants will also pay for their Mentor’s transportation.

Note about application and payment: 
After submitting your application (click on "Join this Trip" button and answer the 4 questions), you are placed on the  Request List. On June 11th, the successful Applicants will be placed on the Waiting List at which point you will need to promptly send a cheque or pay online through PayPal™.  After your payment has been received, you will be placed on the Confirmed List and can then contact your assigned Mentor.

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