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Trip Information
Name: Ice Climbing near Lillooet
Starts: Fri Feb 07, 2014
Meetup: TBA
Return: Sun Feb 09, 2014

Registration opens: Sat Jan 11, 2014
Event category: Ice Climbing
Difficulty grade: WI-3/4  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Joseph Wong
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

What waterfall ice routes (with grades) have you climbed recently?

What do you lead at and what routes would you be interested in lead climbing?

Have you climbed multi-pitch ice routes and if so what routes would you be interested in?

Can you drive (winter ready vehicle) and if so how many can you take with gear?

Would you prefer to travel up Friday evening or very early Saturday morning?

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Participant Information

Focus will be on climbing WI-3/4 routes near Lillooet.  Everyone should have a minimum basic skill of easily top-roping WI-3 ice, plus can safely belay and rappel. FYI, the club has two sets of good ice tools for rent for those interested (see Gear Rental page).  Also, please note that this trip is not an instructional course... it's an opportunity to climb with experienced ice climbers.  

Joe and I plan to drive up Thursday evening, leaving at 6pm, to climb all day Friday.  Based on responses from trip-screening questions, a group of four will drive up Friday evening (driver TBA, departure btw 6-7pm, expect a 4hr drive) to meet Joe and I at the Lillooet "Mile-0-Motel".  Note: passengers are expected to compensate drivers based on BCMC Drive Guidelines.  The group will book two rooms for Fri/Sat nights, each with two queen size beds, at a rate of about $25 per person per night.  You can expect an early start for both days as we'll aim to leave the motel by 6:30am Saturday (6:45am Sunday) to get a good breakfast at a local dinner then head out for a full day of climbing.

More details may be added as the Feb 8th weekend approaches so please recheck from time-to-time and send me an email if you have any questions or concerns.


Check out this old video on Ice climbing Technique which includes instruction for the original "X" pattern that was popular, for many years, for hands and feet placement while climbing ice... many beginners tend to use it.  Then read the comment by Will Gadd on why an X-technique should be replaced by a more balanced T-technique (T for Triangle) ...
http://willgadd.com/x-vs-t-why-the-old-x-technique-is-inferior/ 

A good comprehensive article on current ice climbing style is one by George McEwan titled: Steep Ice Climbing Technique (you may need to scroll down to read the content).  Joe and I encourage everyone to read it... as many times as you need to ;-)

And finally, here's a reminder why we should be very careful to not place our ice tools too close to each other while climbing, especially on/near the same ice feature... https://vimeo.com/58137144


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