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Trip Information
Name: Joffre Peak - Northeast Glacier - AD, ice, 5.8
Starts: Sat Jul 12, 2014
Meetup: TBA
Return: Sun Jul 13, 2014

Registration opens: Sun May 18, 2014
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: D5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Don Montrichard
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

(1) What is the last alpine route, rated "AD" or higher, that you have climbed or attempted?

(2) Can you build a haul system for crevasse rescue? Can you ascend the climbing rope following a fall into a crevasse?

(3) Can you build (unassisted) a rappel anchor and perform your own rappel?

(4) What grade of rock are you currently able to lead on gear?

(5) Can you drive to the trailhead? How many passengers (with their gear) can you take?

(6) Can you supply a tent? stove? rope? pickets? ice screws? rock pro?

(7) Bonus Question: Godzilla, King Kong or Mothra?

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Participant Information

See Alpine Select route #51: "The northeast glacier route offers a fine day of mountaineering on a circuitous ascent on the imposing north side of the peak: mostly easy, with short-lived difficulties high on the route".

Tentative plan is to drive from Vancouver and past Pemberton on Saturday, followed by a 2 hour hike into a bivy site beneath the north face of Joffre Peak. The ascent route goes up moderate rock and steep snow to the northwest ridge, where there are several notches which must be rapped into and then climbed out of (up to 5.8). From the summit, descent is via the "normal route" (Southeast Face), and then will return to the bivy site, pack up  and return to the vehicles.

Trip organizer will supply some of the group gear, including map, GPS, satellite messenger and first aid kit. Shared tents, stoves and ropes will be organized once the trip participants are finalized.

Each trip participant needs to provide his/her own: helmet, harness, steel crampons, ice axe, belay/rappel device, crevasse rescue gear (pulley, carabiners, sewn slings/webbing/cord), warm & weatherproof clothing, enough food and hydration to stay on the move for 12-15 hours at a time.


  • please consider NOT seeking to join this trip unless you have conducted your own research into the route, and compared that with your own experience, fitness level and skill
  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions".
  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such).
  • logistics are self-organized - please use the Planning Forum attached to this trip page to organize rides to the meeting point.
  • Please update your BCMC Account Profile with your emergency contact information. To do that you have to login on the website, click the "My account" button at top right, then click on "edit profile information", then select the "private information" tab and enter your emergency contact information -- this info will stay in your profile and is made available to a trip organizer automatically -- it saves time at the meeting point.
  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Don Montrichard Grade: D5 Start: Fri 22 Aug '14
M:4, C:4, W:1
A high traverse of the highlights of the Tantalus Range
Don Montrichard Grade: C-D 4-5 Start: Sat 2 Aug '14
M:4, C:3, W:0
Mountaineering in the Tantalus Range
Don Montrichard Grade: D5 Start: Sat 21 Jun '14
M:6, C:4, W:0
Weekend attempt on a classic alpine route
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