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Trip Information
Name: Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Starts: Sat Apr 04, 2015
Return: Sat Apr 04, 2015

Registration opens: Tue Mar 03, 2015
Event category: Practice
Difficulty grade: B5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 4

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

* do you have belay, rappel, anchors training?

* date of most technical Alpine Select ( http://goo.gl/8j8qb ) snow/ice trip?

* what skill(s) you want to practice most?

* will you drive or need a ride?

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Participant Information

Crevasse Rescue Response

For active alpine climbers. Assuming one has already received solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountain travel skills.

Location: TBD (can be as far as Pemberton, e.g. Anniversary Glacier)


  • Warm up : knots (12), fall factor, SRENE, ultimate backup.
  • Elements of Glacier Travel - roping up: 2 and 3-climbers rope teams.
  • Self arrest with an ice axe - head uphill facing down.
  • Protection on ice: ice screws and v-threads.
  • Protection on snow: pickets and snow bollards.
  • N-point anchor systems on glaciers.
  • Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 - standard rigging / using TIBLOC.
  • Crevasse Rescue Response Protocol in a three-person rope team.

Skills Required

Personal Gear

  • snowshoes
  • 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
  • helmet
  • harness + belay device
  • carabiners: 2 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape
  • ice axe OR a pair of ice tools (hammer + adze)
  • 2 ice screws + v-thread tool 
  • 2+ short (61cm) snow pickets with runners attached
  • crampons
  • anchor material : cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra )
  • 2 5-mm prusiks + 1 spare
  • rescue pulley
  • Tibloc
  • (minimal) alpine rock protection set if you have
  • personal emergency kit incl. medical, space blanket, flares (if you have)
  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries
  • PLB/SPOT/GPS (if you have)


  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
  • trip without Approved Participants is subject to change.
  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions".
  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).

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Serguei Okountsev Grade: D4 Start: Thu 31 Mar '16
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