BCMC - Alpine Practice

Trip Information

Name: Alpine Practice - Belay

Starts: Sun May 03, 2015

Meetup: WILL BE EMAILED NOON TIME 2 DAYS PRIOR TO THE TRIP

Return: Sun May 03, 2015

Registration opens: Fri May 02, 2014

Event category: Practice

Difficulty grade: B5 [?]

For members only: Yes

Screening used: Yes

Max participants: 4

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev

Profile info:

iegres

Trip Planning Questions

* do you have belay, rappel, anchors training?

* date and grade of most technical Alpine Select ( http://goo.gl/8j8qb ) snow/ice trip?

* will you drive or need a ride?

You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one. If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member. Some trips are BCMC members only.

Participant Information

Alpine Belay

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers. Assuming one has already received solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Location: Mt. Seymour

Agenda

Warm up : knots (12), fall factor, SRENE, ultimate backup.
Belay fundamentals: taking in/paying out rope - alpine style.
Belay systems: off-harness/redirect/off-anchor.
Hip belay.
Boot-ax belay.
Running belay.
Belaying the leader: single rope / twin rope / double rope.
Lowering.
When things go wrong: locking belay device, belay escape, belay re-enter.
Belaying the second, handling the rope.
Independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode.
End of the pitch protocol.
Swapping the lead.
Keeping the lead.
Drill - alpine multipitch stint.

Skills Required

Solid Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber
Proven basic formal mountaineering course.
Must have completed at least one PD route from Alpine Select List

Personal Gear

30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
helmet
harness + belay device (Reverso type)
regular straight ice axe + hammer (ice tool)
carabiners: 2 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape
anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
2 5-mm prusiks + 1 spare
rescue pulley
Tibloc
alpine rock protection (cams, nuts, pitons)
personal emergency kit incl. medical, space blanket, flares (if you have)
headlamp with spare fresh batteries
PLB/SPOT/GPS (if you have)

B.N.

if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
trip without Approved Participants is subject to change.
if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer ALL "Trip Planning Questions"
if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).