About BCMC Events Schedule Club Forums Hut Booking News - Media Club Resources Search
Trip Information
Name: A Youth Wasted Climbing
Starts: Mon Oct 12, 2015
Meetup: 7pm @ Book Warehouse, 4118 Main St, Vancouver
Return: Mon Oct 12, 2015

Registration opens: Fri Sep 11, 2015
Event category: Presentation
Difficulty grade: A1  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: No
Max participants: -

Organizer: Anders Ourom
Profile info:
Login to Join BCMC Trips

You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one.  If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member.   Some trips are BCMC members only.

Participant Information

Dave Chaundy-Smart was one of the leading Canadian climbers in the 1980s. Along with Sam Cohen, Smart started Gripped Magazine in the late 90s. His forthcoming book titled A Youth Wasted Climbing will be available mid-2015.

Chaundy-Smart’s description of his youth has all the understatement and dry wit of Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. There is a natural rhythm to the book that makes it a joy to read: pure and simple. Bloody brilliant.” – Paul Pritchard, author of Deep Play and The Totem Pole, 1997 and 1999 winner of the Boardman-Tasker Prize.

In the mid to late 70s, a group of California-trained climbers led by George Manson were living in Ontario. Manson’s energy was a driving force for Dave and his brother Reg to learn hard climbing or die trying. The Smart brothers made a number of trips to Yosemite before turning their attention to Ontario’s Niagara Escarpment.

Dave Smart and Harry Hoediono on top of Half Dome  Photo Dave Smart Collection

Dave Smart and Harry Hoediono on top of Half Dome Photo Dave Smart Collection

Dave and Reg were at the forefront of Ontario’s climbing throughout the 80s. Dave developed many of the most difficult routes in Ontario at the time, including Cristina’s World 5.12d at Old Baldy, which took 14 days of projecting. Over the years, he established more than 600 routes in Ontario, such as High Society 5.10d, Sister Morphine and Moby Fly 5.11. He ushered in the era of Ontario sport climbing with his route Moby Fly 5.11a and published four guidebooks. The first of which was in 1981, he followed it with another in 1985 and then 1988, before his select Ontario’s Finest Rock Climbs hit the shelves in 1998.

In high school, Dave’s vice-principal told him he was wasting his youth by climbing. 

In Dave’s memoir, A Youth Wasted Climbing, he tells the story of how he and Reg spent the last years of the 1970s fighting suburban boredom by becoming full-time climbers. Dave relives the simpler days of climbing, from dangerous routes and underage tomfoolery to questionable climbing techniques. Don’t miss this must-read by, as Chic Scott said, “One of the leading figures in Ontario rock climbing throughout the 80s.”

A Youth Wasted Climbing is being published by Rocky Mountain Books. For more information, visit here.

Details for this event are from http://gripped.com/news/grippeds-dave-chaundy-smarts-new-book/

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Anders Ourom Grade: A1 Start: Thu 1 Jul '21
M:16, C:6, W:0
Squamish-Area Activities, Followed by a Picnic
Anders Ourom Grade: A3 Start: Sun 4 Oct '20
M:6, C:3, W:0
A modest outing on Mount Seymour, to examine how Pump Peak was used for rock climbing and rescue practice.
Anders Ourom Grade: A1 Start: Sun 6 Sep '20
M:6, C:3, W:0
Hiking, Climbing, Research
Copyright © 2021 British Columbia Mountaineering Club