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Trip Information
Name: Alpine Practice - Belay
Starts: Fri Dec 25, 2015
Meetup: will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip
Return: Fri Dec 25, 2015

Registration opens: Mon Dec 21, 2015
Event category: Practice
Difficulty grade: B4  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 5

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

- in the last 12 months, have you ever cancelled any club trip participation within a day or been a no-show?

- what is your most technical successful Alpine Select trip (peak’s name, date, technical grade of the route, name of the leader)?

- will you drive? if so, how many passengers can you take?

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Participant Information

Alpine Practice - Belay
Date of the trip is approximate, it may move in either direction, and will certainly change if the conditions are not good, need:

  • P.O.P. < 30%
  • total precipitation < 2 mm
  • wind speed < 15 km/h

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers only.  Assuming one has already received a solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal of this session is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Practice Location: to be determined.

Meeting Location and Time will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Priority will be given to those who:

  • have been a club member for more than a year.

  • have been on at least three club trips in the past 12 months.

Skills Required

Agenda1 - Main

  • Two top causes of all mountaineering accidents.

  • Fundamental alpine knots (12).

  • Climbing ropes review: types (single, twin, double), their purpose and characteristics (length, diameter, static and dynamic elongation, impact force).

  • Coiling a climbing rope.

  • Shortening up the rope - Kiwi coil.

  • Dynamic and static forces in and after a fall. Fall factor.

  • Ultimate backup.

  • Tying in.

  • Partner check.

  • Alpine belay fundamentals: rope work - taking in and paying out.

  • Belay voice commands.

  • Belay anchors and SRENE principle.

  • Clipping in to belay station.

  • Belay systems: off-harness (ABC), redirect, off-anchor.

  • When things go wrong: locking belay device, belay escape, belay re-enter.

Agenda 2 - Extra

  • End of the pitch protocol.

  • Swapping the lead.

  • Keeping the lead.

  • Boot-ax belay.

  • Running belay.

  • Hip belay.

  • Top-rope belay.

  • Top-rope lowering.

  • Belaying the leader: single rope / twin rope / double rope.

  • Belaying the second, handling the rope.

  • Independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode.

  • Drill - alpine multipitch stint.

Personal Gear - Main

  • 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)

  • helmet

  • harness + belay device (Reverso type)

  • carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape

  • anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)

  • two 5-mm prusiks + 1 spare

  • personal emergency kit incl. medical

  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries

Personal Gear - Extra

  • alpine rock protection (cams, nuts, pitons)

  • rescue pulley

  • mechanical ascender (Tibloc, Ropeman, etc.)

  • PLB/SPOT/GPS

  • regular straight ice axe

  • ice tool - hammer

  • rappel gloves

IMPORTANT

  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trips in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"

  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ). 

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