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Trip Information
Name: Mt. Matier - Northwest Face (AD-, ice)
Starts: Fri Mar 18, 2016
Meetup: will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip
Return: Sat Mar 19, 2016

Registration opens: Wed Mar 16, 2016
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 4

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

- in the last 12 months, have you ever cancelled any club trip participation within a day or been a no-show?

- will you drive? if so, how many passengers can you take?

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Participant Information

Mt. Matier - Northwest Face
Leaving Vancouver on Friday at 15:30, bivy at Motel 66. If freezing levels are not sufficiently low for this face route or if there is a bad cornice above, will climb the NE ridge (route 64, PD+).

Photo: Traversing Northwest face of Matier. August 2012.

TOPO: green line - main route (NW Face), red line - return (NE spur), blue line - NE spur variation. Magenta - approach via Anniversary Glacier.

One or two rope teams of two. Must be either two or four climbers (three-person climbing teams will not be accepted).

Meeting Time and Location  will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.


  • In the last 12 months must have attended all four sessions of the Alpine Practice Basic Set: Belay, Rappel, Crevasse Rescue Response and Crevasse self-rescue.
  • Proven formal mountaineering course.

  • Avalanche rescue response training.

  • Have successfully completed at least one route from Alpine Select List

Personal Gear - Main

  • snowshoes

  • crampons

  • snow shovel

  • avalanche transceiver

  • avalanche probe

  • 60m 8mm half rope (or else)

  • helmet

  • harness + belay device (Reverso type)
  • ice tool (hammer) + long regular ice axe
  • carabiners: 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape

  • anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)

  • two 5-mm prusiks + 1 short (ratchet)

  • two short (61cm) snow pickets with runners attached

  • rescue pulley
  • mechanical ascender(s) (Tibloc, Ropeman, etc.)
  • personal emergency kit incl. medical

  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries

Personal Gear - Extra

  • PLB/SPOT/GPS - recommended
  • shock-absorbing sling(s) - recommended
  • winter camping - tent, stove, sleeping bag etc.


  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trip in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  all "Trip Planning Questions"

  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder.


Weather: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Matier/forecasts/2783
Avalanche Info: http://www.avalanche.ca/forecasts/sea-to-sky
About Matier: http://bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=46 

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Serguei Okountsev Grade: B5 Start: Tue 19 Apr '16
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Serguei Okountsev Grade: B5 Start: Sat 9 Apr '16
M:3, C:3, W:0
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Serguei Okountsev Grade: D4 Start: Thu 31 Mar '16
M:4, C:2, W:0
Climbing 14,000-foot peaks of sunny California
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