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Trip Information
Name: Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Starts: Tue Feb 09, 2016
Meetup: will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip
Return: Tue Feb 09, 2016

Registration opens: Mon Feb 08, 2016
Event category: Practice
Difficulty grade: B4  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

- in the last 12 months, have you ever cancelled any club trip participation within a day or been a no-show?

- what is your most technical successful Alpine Select trip (peak’s name, date, technical grade of the route, name of the leader)?

- will you drive? if so, how many passengers can you take?

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Participant Information

Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Because  certain factors can't be predicted (e.g. weather, conditions), the date of this trip can only be approximate, it may move in either direction, not unlikely on a very short note (1-2 days prior to the actual trip). As long as "registered" list is empty, consider this trip as "standing-by".

For active alpine climbers only.  Assuming one has already received a solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal of this session is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Practice Location: to be determined.

Meeting Location and Time will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Priority will be given to those who:

  • have been a club member for more than a year.

  • have been on at least three club trips in the past 12 months.

Skills Required


  • Alpine knots (12).
  • Fall factor and impact forces.
  • Ultimate backup.
  • About glacier travel gear: ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, prusiks, ascenders, ice axes, ski poles, backpack sling, crampons, anchor material.
  • Glacier anchors: pickets, snow bollards, ice screws, v-threads. SRENE principle.
  • Roping up for glacier travel: 2 and 3-climbers rope teams. Kiwi coil.
  • Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 - standard rigging / using TIBLOC.
  • Transferring the load from the climber is self-arrest to the anchor: first anchor, ultimate backup, second anchor.
  • Crevasse Rescue Response Protocol in a three-person rope team.

Personal Gear

  • 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
  • helmet
  • harness + belay device (Reverso type)
  • carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape
  • anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
  • two 5-mm prusiks (leg, chest) + one short (ratchet)
  • Mechanical ascender(s) (e.g. Tiblock, Ropeman) - two will be ideal
  • rescue pulley

  • personal emergency kit incl. medical
  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries


  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trips in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"

  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ). 

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Serguei Okountsev Grade: B5 Start: Tue 19 Apr '16
M:4, C:2, W:0
Mastering the fundamentals of modern alpinism
Serguei Okountsev Grade: B5 Start: Sat 9 Apr '16
M:3, C:3, W:0
Climbing Top Ten U.S. State Highpoints: Washington
Serguei Okountsev Grade: D4 Start: Thu 31 Mar '16
M:4, C:2, W:0
Climbing 14,000-foot peaks of sunny California
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