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Trip Information
Name: Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Starts: Tue Feb 09, 2016
Meetup: will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip
Return: Tue Feb 09, 2016

Registration opens: Mon Feb 08, 2016
Event category: Practice
Difficulty grade: B4  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Serguei Okountsev
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

- in the last 12 months, have you ever cancelled any club trip participation within a day or been a no-show?

- what is your most technical successful Alpine Select trip (peak’s name, date, technical grade of the route, name of the leader)?

- will you drive? if so, how many passengers can you take?

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Participant Information

Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Because  certain factors can't be predicted (e.g. weather, conditions), the date of this trip can only be approximate, it may move in either direction, not unlikely on a very short note (1-2 days prior to the actual trip). As long as "registered" list is empty, consider this trip as "standing-by".

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers only.  Assuming one has already received a solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal of this session is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Practice Location: to be determined.

Meeting Location and Time will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Priority will be given to those who:

  • have been a club member for more than a year.

  • have been on at least three club trips in the past 12 months.

Skills Required

Agenda

  • Alpine knots (12).
  • Fall factor and impact forces.
  • Ultimate backup.
  • About glacier travel gear: ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, prusiks, ascenders, ice axes, ski poles, backpack sling, crampons, anchor material.
  • Glacier anchors: pickets, snow bollards, ice screws, v-threads. SRENE principle.
  • Roping up for glacier travel: 2 and 3-climbers rope teams. Kiwi coil.
  • Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 - standard rigging / using TIBLOC.
  • Transferring the load from the climber is self-arrest to the anchor: first anchor, ultimate backup, second anchor.
  • Crevasse Rescue Response Protocol in a three-person rope team.

Personal Gear

  • 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
  • helmet
  • harness + belay device (Reverso type)
  • carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape
  • anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
  • two 5-mm prusiks (leg, chest) + one short (ratchet)
  • Mechanical ascender(s) (e.g. Tiblock, Ropeman) - two will be ideal
  • rescue pulley

  • personal emergency kit incl. medical
  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries

IMPORTANT

  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trips in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"

  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ). 

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