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Trip Information
Name: Mount Hood via Old Chute
Starts: Sat Jun 17, 2017
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Jun 18, 2017

Registration opens: Fri Jun 09, 2017
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Bryant Lim
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

1. What mountaineering trips have you done recently?

2. Do you have a rope you can share?

3. What type of vehicle do you have? How many passengers can you take/sleep?

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Participant Information

Mount Hood, located about 50 miles east of Portland, Oregon, is one of the most climbed glaciated peaks in North America. While it last erupted in 1907 and still has active fumaroles, it is now considered a dormant volcano. Climbing
 and skiing on Mount Hood is most popular most from May to Mid-July, which is after avalanche season but before crevasses and rockfall become serious.

Ascent Route:
Follow Palmer Glacier, along east edge (right side) to avoid interfering with ski trails (as directed by sign at climbers’ trailhead), to Triangular Moraine above cat track (5° bearing from Silcox hut). Climb above Triangular Moraine (8,500 ft) on most gentle ground to east side of Crater Rock (slope opposite Steel Cliff). Follow round Crater Rock, above sulfur-fuming Devil’s Kitchen (10,400 ft), to its north side to find wind carved snow formation called the Hogsback.

From the low point on the crest of the Hogsback, descend the far side (to the north) then go straight up (east) a large steep open face into a narrowing and even steeper (~50°) chute on the right. It tops out onto a level spot about 50 yards from the summit. It is also possible to bear slightly left near the top of the steep face, before the chute, and gain the summit ridge by a very steep final slope. Running belays with pickets is recommended.

 Distance: 12.9km
 Elevation Gain: 1,596m
 Time Required: 5-8 hours (est.)

 Saturday, June 17: Drive to Mount Hood. Car camp.
• Sunday, June 18: 12am start. Return to cars by 8am. 

This trip is weather-dependent and may be rescheduled in case of suspected poor weather. An evaluation will be made a few days prior to departure. 

PermitsPermits are available at the Timberline day lodge.

The following is required of all participants:
• Standard glacier equipment
• Training in glacier travel and crevasse rescue
• Valid passport and ability to enter the U.S.
• Valid driver's license - The trip down to Oregon is a long one and participants are expected to take turns to drive

Emergency Contact: If you haven't done so, please add it to your BCMC account by clicking on "My Account" in the top-right corner of our club website, then select "Edit Emergency Contact" under "Manage My Account" in the left column.

Waiver and Medical: Every participant must have read, agreed and signed the club's online Waiver. 

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