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Trip Information
Name: 4-day 2-weekend Trad/Multi-pitch/Rock Rescue Course
Starts: Sat Jun 16, 2018
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Jun 24, 2018

Registration opens: Mon Mar 19, 2018
Event category: Instructional Program
Difficulty grade: B5  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Jonathan Ross
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

What grade do you lead on sport climbing?

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Participant Information

 

This comprehensive 4-day course is for BCMC members (or referred participants) who are sport climbers already climbing outdoors and wanting the skills and knowledge to take their climbing to the next level.  Participants can expect to leave the course fully autonomous, with a strong foundation in all aspects of rock climbing.  

Base Course Fee: 

As this is a custom course with Mountain Skills Academy & Adventures, the overall fee for the group is $4,494 + GST ($749/day for 3 days (1 guide) and $2,247/day for 1 day (3 guides) ) or $749/pp + GST based on 6 people.  As BCMC receives 20% off ($150 per person), I have set up pricing with MSAA of $599/pp + GST based on 6 people; final price per person will be determined once the number of participants is confirmed.  Group size is 6 people maximum.

Registration: 

  1. Click “Join this trip” on the left hand side of the page. You will be added to the Waiting List.
  2. Complete your payment directly with MSAA at (604) 938-9242 or Rock Climbing Super Course
    1. If you are using the link above, use the promo code BCMC20 to apply the 20% discount 
    2. If you are phoning, let them know you are signing up for 'BCMC - Rock Climbing Super Course - June 16th, 17th, 23rd and 24th, 2018', and that you are part of BCMC. 
    3. You will receive a confirmation email from MSAA once your payment is completed.
  3. Forward your confirmation email to the trip organizer. You will then be added to the Confirmed List. Keep an eye on your email for further information.

Location: 

Squamish** 

Carpooling can be arranged.

**Note: Updates will be made to confirm the exact location closer to the course date.

Course Modules 

  • Intro to Trad – 1.5 days
  • Intro to Multi-Pitch – 1.5 days (the best weather day for the multi-pitch climb) 
  • Rock Rescue – 1 day  

*Guide ratio is 1:6 except for 3rd-day or the multi-pitch day (this may be changed to the best weather day, be flexible), where it will be a 1:2 ratio. 

 

Course Objectives:

Intro To Trad Climbing Module
 

Lesson 1 Equipment: Overview and fit for trad climbing equipment 
Lesson 2 Environment: Leave no trace and wildlife discussion. 

Lesson 3 Onsite safety: Current hazards and safety protocols. 
Lesson 4 Introduction to Trad Protection: Cams, nuts, pitons etc. 
Lesson 5 Introduction to Trad terminology, principles and physics: direction of pull, passive vs. active, etc. 
Lesson 6 How to place and remove different pieces of trad protection 
Lesson 7 Building Anchors: Using the IDEALS & SRENE acronym for a solid anchor 

Lesson 8 Building Anchors: Using appropriate soft materials for anchors 
Lesson 9 Lead Climbing Strategies: Racking up for your lead 
Lesson 10 Simulated Leads: Placing and removing protection on top rope 
Lesson 11 Building and Assessing Anchors: When topping out on your trad climb 
Lesson 12 Trad climbing multi-pitch seconding technique & considerations 

Lesson 13 Natural anchors- assessment and use 
Lesson 14 Trad leading session (for those with previous leading experience) 
Lesson 15 Climbing: Professional Coaching and Application 

 

Intro To Multi-Pitch Climbing Module
 

Lesson 1 Equipment check: For those using rental climbing equipment: Fit for climbing shoes, harness & helmet 
Lesson 2 Environment: Leave no trace and wildlife discussion. 

Lesson 3 On site safety: Current hazards and safety protocols. 
Lesson 4 Introduction to multi-pitch Theory 
Lesson 5 Review: Knots, belayer & rope placement-belaying, and communication 
Lesson 6 The multi-pitch back pack and approach strategy 
Lesson 7 Gear Requirements: Putting together the right rack for the route 

Lesson 8 Route Selection: Selecting the right Multi-pitch climb. 
Lesson 9 Rope Selection: Single ropes vs half or twin ropes 
Lesson 10 Securing Yourself: To an anchor during a multi-pitch 
Lesson 11 Lead belaying and top-down belaying, re-directed belay – different systems 
Lesson 12 Racking up for a multi-pitch 

Lesson 13 Safety; Rope and Belay Management placement 
Lesson 14 Multi-pitch communication and commands- rope tugs technique 
Lesson 15 Protecting the second from pendulum 
Lesson 16 Retreat Options and Backup Plans- problem solving 
Lesson 17 Rappelling with a back-up prussic 

Lesson 18 Extending the anchor to see your partner 
Lesson 19 Efficient leader switch-overs 
Lesson 20 Rope drag reduction technique 
Lesson 21 Advanced rope management- Ascent: effective switch-overs re-stacking techniques 

Lesson 22 Advanced rope management- Descent: – Lap coil throw, End of rope knots, pre-threading anchor 

Lesson 23 Advanced safety techniques- rappelling with backup prussic/lap coils, lowering considerations 
Lesson 24 Advanced safety techniques- J-looping anchor, fireman belay 
Lesson 25 Mentoring day climbing up and descending a multi-pitch training route 
Lesson 26 How to assess next day’s route condition, weather forecast and route choice
Lesson 27 Assignment: Participants choose next day’s objective and make a route plan 

Lesson 28 Evaluate participants’ route selection, plan 
Lesson 29 Evaluate participants route condition and weather forecast 
Lesson 30 Participants either lead up within their comfort level and capability or are led up a multi-pitch route. 
Lesson 31 On going multi-pitch system instruction and feedback during the day

Lesson 32 Participants lead down a multi-pitch via rappel 

Lesson 33 On going multi-pitch systems instruction and feedback during the descent 

 

Rock Rescue Module 

  

Lesson 1 Equipment: Harness, helmet, and other necessary rescue gear 
Lesson 2 Environment: Leave no trace and wildlife discussion. 
Lesson 3 Onsite safety: Current hazards and safety protocols. 
Lesson 4 The Implications of Rescue: Discussion 
Lesson 5 Equipment: Being prepared for a rescue 
Lesson 6 Rope Rescue Components: Knots and Hitches 
Lesson 7 Rock Rescue Demonstration: Steps in Rope Rescue 
Lesson 8 Blocking the Belay: To free the hands 
Lesson 9 Transferring the Load: From belayer to anchor 
Lesson 10 Assessing the Situation: Attend the victim? 
Lesson 11 Raising: Setting up a basic Z pulley haul system 
Lesson 12 Lowering: Setting up to lower and injured climber 
Lesson 13 Counterbalance Rappel: How to descend and retrieve an injured climber 
Lesson 14 Tandem Rappelling: How to rappel with an injured climber 
Lesson 15 Reversing the Belay: How to reverse a self-locking plate i.e. Reverso® 
Lesson 16 Rope Ascending and Descending: Use of different systems 

 

Notes:

Cost does not include transportation to/from course areas; lift access fees (if applicable); food; or personal equipment except as noted.

You must supply: 

Clothing 

 

Weather conditions along the Coast Mountain Range are constantly changing. Plan ahead, look into weather trends, and prepare for all weather conditions. 

  • Climbing pants (light pants that allow maximum mobility) 
  • Tee shirt 
  • Mid layer fleece or wool top 
  • Weatherproof shell jacket 
  • Down or synthetic insulating “puffy” jacket 
  • Warm hat 
  • Light gloves 
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen 
  • Approach shoes or sturdy hiking shoes or boots. 
  • Daypack 25-35L 

Rock Climbing Equipment 

  • Rock shoes 
  • Harness 
  • Helmet 
  • Belay device 
  • Locking carabiner 
  • Chalk bag 
  • Hiking pole (optional)
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