About BCMC Events Schedule Club Forums Hut Booking News - Media Club Resources Search
Trip Information
Name: Wedge Mountain - Northeast Arete
Starts: Sat Apr 20, 2019
Meetup: It will be an alpine start - details will be posted in planning forum
Return: Sat Apr 20, 2019

Registration opens: Sat Mar 16, 2019
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Slawomir Skoczylas
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

1 - What sort of crevasse rescue knowledge or training do you have ? Which anchors can you build ? Which hauling systems can you build ?

2 - Group gear - Do you have snow picket(s) ? How many ?

3 - Group gear - Do you have a rope ? What type ?

4 - Can you drive to the trail head ?

5 - How many people can you take including the driver ?

Login to Join BCMC Trips

You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one.  If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member.   Some trips are BCMC members only.

Participant Information

Related image

The plan is to drive from Vancouver to the trail head early Saturday morning, hike to Wedgemount Lake Hut via the standard hiking trail.  Take a quick break / breakfast at the Wedgemount Lake Hut, then proceed toward the Wedgemount Glacier and then toward the Wedge-Weart col.  From there we will start the Northeast Arete and finish on the summit of Wedge Mountain.  On the way back down we will take the same path, but there are two alternative paths just in case. 

The Alpine Select book describes the Wedge Mountain Northeast Arete route as "A beautiful classic mountaineering in British Columbia. Mostly easy-angled, but very exposed, especially in the upper section where the arete peters out into a steepening open face shortly before the summit ridge."

The elevation gain will be approximately 2500m from the trail head to the summit and the duration of the trip will be approximately 17 hours (or more depending on the conditions) from trail head to trail head.  Please bring enough food, water and warm clothes to be able to stay on the move for the duration of the entire trip.  (Since we will be taking back the exact same route from the Wedgemount Glacier to the trail head, this allows us to cache some food and water for the way back as a strategy) 

Team equipment:

  • Ropes
  • Snow pickets
  • Ice screws (optional)

Individual equipment:

  • Helmet
  • Climbing harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe (second ice axe optional)
  • Your favorite crevasse rescue setup
  • Food / water
  • Warm clothes
  • Snow shoes (optional)

Please do your own research into the route ahead of time. 

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Slawomir Skoczylas Grade: A1 Start: Wed 19 Feb '20
M:10, C:10, W:3
No need to join a "pulley club" to learn about Pulleys and Mechanical Advantage Systems.
Slawomir Skoczylas Grade: C2 Start: Sat 14 Dec '19
M:8, C:4, W:0
A hike to Elfin Lakes and back.
Slawomir Skoczylas Grade: C2 Start: Sat 23 Nov '19
M:10, C:9, W:0
Scramble to the top of Frosty Mountain the highest peak in Manning Park.
Copyright © 2021 British Columbia Mountaineering Club