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Trip Information
Name: Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge
Starts: Fri May 31, 2019
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Jun 02, 2019

Registration opens: Tue Mar 19, 2019
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 3

Organizer: Mohammad Pahrbod
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Describe examples of the following experience with the following techniques

• Roped Travel / Team Arrest

• Crevasse Rescue

• Simul climb with running protection

• Short-pitching

• Pitched Ice Climbing

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Participant Information


We will approach via the White River Campground/Glacier Basin Trail and hike into the base of the ridge on the Carbon Glacier via St. Elmos Pass and across Curtis Ridge (first camp). After negotiating the cracks on the Carbon Glacier, we will start scouting our access onto the ridge. Climb 30-40 degree snow slopes and traverse scree and rocks up to Thumb Rock at 10,500 ft (second camp). From Thumb Rock, we either go straight up a short ice pitch (70-80 degrees) in the center of a rock band, or traverse up and left/right around the cliff. From 11,000 to 12,000, we climb increasingly steeper slopes and maybe a few icy sections up to 50 degrees. At 12k (Black Pyramid) we go east (left) out onto the Willis Wall on exposed snow/ice faces up to 60 degrees. We will then climb several pitches of 50-60 degree ice and negotiate steep glacier travel until gaining the Liberty Cap Glacier around 13,500 ft. We will probably have to climb a few short vertical ice sections to surpass the bergschrund before topping out. We will then reach the Liberty Cap summit at 14,112 ft. Descend will be through the Emmons-Winthrop route down to Camp Schurman.

Techniques required include:
• Roped Travel / Team Arrest
• Crevasse Rescue
• Simul climb with running protection
• Short-pitching
• Pitched Ice Climbing

This is not a beginner friendly climb. It's an extremely demanding climb and only for experienced alpine climbers.


Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: B5 Start: Sun 28 Feb '21
M:6, C:6, W:3
WI3-5 depending on the route and conditions
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: B5 Start: Sun 24 Jan '21
M:6, C:6, W:2
WI4-5 depending on the route and conditions
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: C4 Start: Sat 23 Jan '21
M:6, C:5, W:9
40-50 degree snow/ice with 3 pitches of WI2-3 direct finish to the summit
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