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Trip Information
Name: Kanchenjunga Expedition, Nepal
Starts: Thu Apr 02, 2020
Meetup: Would be great to fly together from Vancouver. Up for discussion.
Return: Wed Jun 03, 2020

Registration opens: Mon Mar 25, 2019
Event category: Guided Instruction
Difficulty grade: D5  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 8

Organizer: John Gill
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

- What is the highest elevation you have climbed to before?

- Have you been to Nepal before?

- Are you able to join for practice climbs around Vancouver?

- Do you have your own gear, or need to buy/rent?

- Can you give me an idea of your mountaineering experience, climbing grades, etc?

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Participant Information

Some of you may remember a talk I did at a BCMC social night last year, about the Kanchenjunga area and other trips to Nepal. I mentioned a Kanchenjunga expedition - and here it is!

Kanchenjunga is the 3rd highest mountain in the world at 8,586m. The expedition is in the spring of 2020, for the whole of April/May. We will be climbing the original (SW Face) route via the Yalung glacier. 

For more information on the expedition, check out our expedition website: http://kanchenjunga.outdoor-explore.com/

Itinerary here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1QMxN7I_v2Fj2pldZnwyl8gqiEEqdqAQsBgWfxdZdHaY/edit?usp=sharing

This IS a supported expedition. We will have Sherpa guides and a base camp crew. The lead guide, Namgya Sherpa (Grand Himalaya Treks & Expeditions), is a good friend of mine with an impressive 12 summits of Everest, plus many others.

Currently we have 4 Canadian climbers (all BCMC members) and 2 Romanian climbers (sharing Base Camp, permit, etc.). I'm hoping for 8-10 climbers - we will split into smaller teams on mountain.

Part of the reason to climb Kanchenjunga is to make a movie about Namgya, Sherpa culture and the expedition. We will have a camera person with us (likely not above base camp).

There is also a trek accompanying the climbers on the approach march. More information in a separate trip post.

The cost varies depending on the amount of equipment you already have, and the amount of sponsorship we can get. 

Base cost of the expedition for 8 climbers is $9,700 USD per climber. If we have 9+ climbers then this drops to $7,000 USD. Flights are approx $1,200 CAD. Plus insurance, tipping for Sherpa staff, spending money, gear etc. I have all the costs in a breakdown which I can share if you are interested in joining.

I have lots more information I can provide (this plan has been in the works for 2 years already). If you are interested, and you tick the following boxes, please get in touch:

- You understand and accept the risks involved in climbing an 8,000m peak
- You have previous high altitude experience (ideally 7,000m+)
- You have a spare $10,000 - $15,000 (depending on team size and sponsorship)
- You can take off 2 months in spring 2020
- You're a team player and you understand that this is a team effort.
- You have lots of experience ice, rock, mixed, snow climbing and are comfortable with glacier travel and rescue.
- You have past experience climbing fixed ropes, carrying heavy loads, long days, etc
- You understand that there's a very good chance you won't summit - but you're OK with that.

Please email me (johngill2527@gmail.com) before signing up. I would like to meet all potential team members in person, and practice climbs will be organized for the team.

Thanks, John

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
John Gill Grade: C2 Start: Thu 2 Apr '20
M:8, C:1, W:1
Trek accompanying the 2020 Canadian Kanchenjunga expedition
John Gill Grade: B2/C2 Start: Sat 14 Oct '17
M:10, C:1, W:0
3 weeks trekking in Nepal in the Everest area
John Gill Grade: D5/6 Start: Tue 4 Oct '16
M:6, C:3, W:0
Ama Dablam Climb (6,854m) - Nepal
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