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Trip Information
Name: Advanced 2 Person Crevasse Rescue with MSAA
Starts: Sun May 26, 2019
Meetup: Smoke Bluffs, Squamish
Return: Sun May 26, 2019

Registration opens: Mon May 06, 2019
Event category: Guided Instruction
Difficulty grade: B5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 8

Organizer: Jonathan Ross
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Do you have previous crevasse rescue training? Please list.

Please provide your level of experience and some recent trips with dates.

Are you competent in rope handling and are you familiar with the knots, belays and use of gear required for snow and glacier travel?

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Participant Information
This MSAA course is for BCMC members (or referred participants) who are climbers/mountaineers wanting to build their knowledge of  crevasse rescue for small teams.  Self-reliance of teams is key while travelling in mountainous environments, and more so in small teams.  Advanced 2 Person Crevasse Rescue prepares mountaineers and ski tourers with glacier travel and self-rescue skills required to safely travel through glaciated terrain in 2-person teams.  This course is intended to give a 2-person climbing/skiing team knowledge of safe roped-up glacier travel and crevasse rescue systems specific to small teams using minimal modern equipment taught to the professional Association of Canadian Mountain Guide standards. This course includes glacier travel methods, rope management, snow/ice anchors, basic group rescue and advanced two-person crevasse rescue skills. You can complement the Advanced 2 Person Crevasse Rescue course by taking a Rock Rescue course as a prerequisite.

Base Course Fee: 

The standard price for this course from MSAA is $210 + GST.  I have set up pricing with the BCMC discount 20% which will make the price $175.  Group size is 8 people maximum.

On-line Registration process:

  1. Click “Join this trip” on the left hand side of the page. You will be added to the Waiting List once your request to join the course has been approved.
  2. To reserve your spot, wait for sign-up information from the organiser.
  3. You will receive a confirmation email from MSAA once your payment is completed.
  4. Forward your confirmation email to the trip organiser. You will then be added to the Confirmed List. Keep an eye on your email for further information.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact the trip organiser.

Location: Squamish** Meeting at Smoke Bluffs for 8:30 AM, May 26, 2019

**Note: Updates will be made to confirm the exact field locations closer to the course date.

Carpooling can be arranged.

  • Must have previous crevasse rescue training;
  • Previous climbing or mountaineering experience recommended;
  • Must have basic rope handling, knot tying and crevasse rescue technique competency for the course to be advantageous to all participants.
Course Description:
 Systems specific to 2-person teams will be focused on in this course.
Glacier travel risk management practices.
Review travel skills to ensure skiers, mountaineers and climbers have the skills to properly rope up for different types of glaciated terrain and choose appropriate routes to avoid falling into a crevasse.  Additional consideration for travel techniques and method will be introduced and integrated into travel skills.
Snow and Ice anchor construction
As this is truly the foundation of any rescue, skiers, mountaineers and climbers should already be very proficient in building a variety of anchors appropriate to varying conditions.   The intent of the course is to add variations on anchor building for solo rescue will be introduced and incorporated into the anchor systems.
Rope rescue systems
This is the main content of the course and most of the time is spent on learning and practising rescue techniques including load transfers, raises using a mechanical advantage (pulleys), efficient use of gear and ascending/descending techniques.  Variations on existing systems for solo rescue, and additional considerations for rescue systems will be introduced and integrated into rescue systems
Topics Include
  • Product knowledge
  • Proper use and care of equipment
  • Group Travel & Safety Concerns
  • Safety and hazard assessment
  • New rescue product overview (Petzl Micro-traction)
  • Glacier travel methods
  • Travel & Safety Concerns
  • Rescue protocol
  • Communication
  • Advanced self rescue
  • Advanced crevasse rescue
  • Z-pulley & increased advantage
  • Descending/Ascending Rope
  • Basic personal equipment
    • Outdoor footwear and clothing
    • Helmet 
    • Harness
    •  Sunglasses: 
      • Must have 100% UV blockage and ideally provide full protection with wrap-around style, or side shields
    •  Food/Hydration
  • Technical  Equipment Please let your guide know in advance if you require any of the following:
    • Helmet;
    • Harness;
    • Carabiners:
      • 4 locking (1 of these a pear shaped or Munter locking carabiner); and
      • 4 non-locking;
    • Ratchet device:
      • Highly recommend Petzl Micro-Traction;
    • Note pad and pencil;
    • Belay device (1): 
      • Ideally a device that can be used in auto-block mode, and for descending and belaying:
        • Black Diamond "ATC"; or
        • Petzl Reverso;
    • 6-7mm accessory climbing cord: 
      • 2 x 5 metre length; and
      • 1 x T-block, or 1.75 metre length, or hollow block;
      • 1 x 1.75 metre length;
        • used for rope rescue and personal climbing systems;
    •  Sewn webbing climbing sling:
      • (120 cm, full strength of 20+ kN's).

Group gear will be per 2 participants:

  •  1 x 50/60/70m single rope; or
  • 2 x 50/60/70m half ropes.

Guide gear will include:

  • Paired down alpine trad rack: alpine draws, hammer/pitons, stoppers/cams,
  • First aid kit, splint, blister kit,
  • Cell phone/satellite phone,
  • Guide’s Tarp, and
  • Programmable Radio.

You must supply your own gear as noted above. If you don't have your own equipment, MSSA can provide climbing equipment, or you can rent from MEC Vancouver or from other local mountain shops.

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