About BCMC Events Schedule Club Forums Hut Booking News - Media Club Resources Search
 
Trip Information
Name: S Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib
Starts: Sat Jul 13, 2019
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Jul 14, 2019

Registration opens: Wed Jun 05, 2019
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Mohammad Pahrbod
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Provide three of your multi-pitch alpine climbs or rock climb experiences with the grades up to 5.9 in the last 12 month

Login to Join BCMC Trips

You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one.  If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member.   Some trips are BCMC members only.

Participant Information

The route is located on the south/west side of the WA Pass group, on the west face of South Early Winter Spire.

Hike from the Blue Lake TH for ~1.25 miles until you reach a clearing. From here, follow climber trails (step lightly and around the fragile alpine meadows) to the base of the route, marked by a Y-shaped larch tree.  The SW Rib is the feature to climber's left of the SW Couloir.

 

P1: Scramble up the easy ledge that starts in front of the Y-shaped Larch tree. Belay off of a sturdy tree and follow cracks straight up through an awkward bulge with great gear to an awesome ledge at the base of the Wavy Crack. 5.8+, ~160 feet.

P2 (wavy crack): climb the nice, wide, 5.8 left-leaning crack. Belay at the top of this crack at a tree. 5.8, ~80 feet.

P3: Continue up and left to a tree, then up and right to a belay below the Boving Roof and the West Face route to the left. 5.6, ~60 ft.

P4: Step out right around the corner then go up to the base of the obvious dual offwidths, past some delicate, unprotected 5.6+ slab moves. ~100 ft. This can be linked with the next pitch.

P5: The bear hug pitch. Climb the very fun dual offwidth crack. From the top of the cracks, move up and right below a white wall into a corner and belay. 5.7+, ~80 ft.

P6: clip a bolt, then climb easy slab (5.5 or so) to the arete. Continue following the slabby arete with no pro, and belay at the 'Rabbit Ears,' two bouldery towers with rappel slings. Watch rope drag. ~165 ft.

P7: Either rappel or downclimb into the gully, then climb up from the gully on easy crack systems to the summit blocks. 5.5, ~80 ft.

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
RSS
 
 
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: C5 Start: Fri 2 Aug '19
M:6, C:8, W:1
climbing one of the “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America" - III, 5.4
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: C5 Start: Sat 27 Jul '19
M:6, C:6, W:4
Included amongst the 50 Classic Climbs of North America located in Boston Basin.
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: A5 Start: Tue 2 Jul '19
M:99, C:4, W:0
Indoor climb - Top rope and Lead - Various grades
Copyright © 2019 British Columbia Mountaineering Club