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Trip Information
Name: Ice Climbing - Mount Baker Seracs
Starts: Thu Oct 10, 2019
Meetup:
Return: Fri Oct 11, 2019

Registration opens: Fri Oct 04, 2019
Event category: Ice Climbing
Difficulty grade: C5  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: No
Max participants: 4

Organizer: Clayton Matthews
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Have you ice climbed at Mount Baker before?

What grade ice can you lead and follow?

Are you comfortable / confident ice climbing and finding your way at night?

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Participant Information

A day of fun ice climbing and camping at the Coleman Glacier.

 

Meet up will be at the Tim Hortons (near the Pet Smart), right before the Sumas border crossing.

 

We can use the forum to arrange meetup time, for car pooling, and gear.

 

Gear needed for the outing:

 

- Helmet, harness, crampons (steel), ice tools, 3 or more long ice screws, anchor material, rope.

 

- Many pairs of thin layered gloves, socks and additional warm clothing. Pair of goggles, appropriate clothing (as it may rain), lunch, snacks, and meals, stove & fuel, warm thermos drinks such as extra dark hot chocolate, smiles and etc.

 

- Your emergency contact.

 

- Proper documentation to cross the US-Canadian Border, e.g. Enhanced Drivers License or Passport.

 

- Health or Medical Insurance coverage (BCAA) for that day plus the next... costs about $20.

 

Weather

 

 

https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Baker/forecasts/3285

 

 

 

The Plan

 

Get to Heliotrope Ridge Parking Lot and hike up to camp. Setup camp, have a break, go climb!

 

I am hoping to climb late with the goal to do some ice climbing night photography. I am expecting to climb until 9 or 10pm. We would get to the seracs a few hours before night fall, scope out some lines, top rope a bit, setup some lighting, then climb and shoot under the stars.

The next morning we will go climb until about 2pm and head home to beat the weekend rush at the border.

 

Trip will be cancelled if there are weather forecasts for heavy rain or snow. If its really cloudy we will probably skip the night photo session and just focus on climbing during the day.

 

This is not a course. Consider it a warm-up for the upcoming ice climbing season. Previous ice climbing experience on the Mount Baker seracs is mandatory.

 

Additional gear and ride sharing discussion will be posted on the planning forum.

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