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Trip Information
Name: Mount Gimli - South Ridge
Starts: Sat Jul 11, 2020
Meetup: TBD
Return: Sun Jul 12, 2020

Registration opens: Mon Mar 30, 2020
Event category: Rock Climbing
Difficulty grade: B5  [?]
For members only: No
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 4

Organizer: Mohammad Pahrbod
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

Please only respond if you have climbed with me in the last 12 months

1- Your leading trad alpine climbs experience in the same grades

2- Do you drive

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Participant Information

High quality gneiss is climbed directly up the fin shaped southeast ridge of Mount Gimli. 

Start climbing left of the pack-stash ledge, up delicate but easy slabs, 20 feet left of the main crack system. Climb the excellent white corner passing a roof with good holds and strenuous pulls out right. 35 meters up, there are about ten slings, with rings, around a flake for a rappel anchor. Better to belay on the ledge a few feet above the slings. Anchor in the main crack on the left. Beware of the hollow horizontal crack that appears to anchor the better part of the ledge.

The second pitch climbs up to the ridge using thin cracks and dark gneiss band holds. About 5.7 to start, then easing up to a notch/Gendarme belay with a slung chock stone.

Pitch three climbs more gorgeous, steep, and tricky banded gneiss. End at a tree and nice ledge on the ridge (5.7, see photo).

Pitch four is again steep and beautiful, with a hard lie back move. End atop the grassy and comfortable "Lunch Ledge" (5.6+, 60 meters).

Pitch five is again fun and exposed for 60 meters to the base of the notorious roof pitch (5.8).

Pitch six starts with a short corner up the roof move. Left around the roof up to a small ledge (5.10a move).

Pitch seven is the last of the fifth class climbing. Two hundred feet, with more nicely sculpted rock, up to a belay below the "diving board" (5.7).

A long stretch of class III ridge leads to Mount Gimli's sub-summit, then a notch, and finally a class II scramble to the true summit.

Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: B5 Start: Sun 28 Feb '21
M:6, C:6, W:3
WI3-5 depending on the route and conditions
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: B5 Start: Sun 24 Jan '21
M:6, C:6, W:2
WI4-5 depending on the route and conditions
Mohammad Pahrbod Grade: C4 Start: Sat 23 Jan '21
M:6, C:5, W:9
40-50 degree snow/ice with 3 pitches of WI2-3 direct finish to the summit
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