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Trip Information
Name: Summer Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue
Starts: Sat Jun 20, 2020
Meetup: TBA
Return: Sun Jun 21, 2020

Registration opens: Thu Jun 11, 2020
Event category: Guided Instruction
Difficulty grade: B5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: No
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Oudina Cherfi
Profile info:
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Participant Information

***This course is taught by Vancouver Mountain Guides (for more info use this link, for payment use link on Payment below). VMG is offering a special price (33% off) for BCMC members of $182.11 + GST (regular price for non-members: $269 + GST).***

*** For transportation, please follow BCMC COVID-19 guidlines at the top of the BCMC trip list.***

 

Alpine glaciers are masses of ice constantly on the move. Although the surface can look smooth and benign, a thin veil of melting summer snow will hide massive cracks - called crevasses. Climbers need to learn and practice skills to safely negotiate crevasses (some will be hidden), and to execute a rescue if someone falls into a hidden hole or if a snow bridge suddenly collapses.   

This course teaches fundamental skills for glacier travel, building snow and ice anchors, and rescue systems. It’s a great course for rock climbers and mountaineers wanting to travel across glaciated terrain or for those that need a refresher. We cover self-rescue and how to prusik the rope, but also cover different hauling methods for scenarios that may require a rescue. Practice scenarios with your guide in the field will prepare you well for your next adventure! 

Itinerary:

Day 1

Meet at Climb On in downtown Squamish at 8am. Please come 15 minutes early if you need to rent equipment or purchase last minute items. Your guide will go over the waiver and check your equipment before moving to the crag.

Day 1 will be spent in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs learning technical skills. Plan to be back at the cars by 4pm.  Depending on the time of year and snow pack you might hike into a backcountry training location that evening or leave early in the morning.  

 

Day 2 

The next day will be spent immersed in the field learning hands-on techniques. Plan to return back to your car around 6 pm for the drive home.  

Possible mountain areas used for training include: Water Sprite Lake, Brandywine Mountain, Singing Pass, Skypilot, Joffre Lakes, Rainbow Mountain.

 

Goals:

Day 1

Review technical skills: belaying, knots, equipment strengths and limitations.

-Crevasse rescue kits and equipment.

-Rope ascending with prusiks, microtraxion, and Guide ATC.

-Hauling systems: 

-C-drop

-Z-haul

-Mountain geography, features of a glaciated landscape, moraines, types of crevasses and how they form.

-Roping-up for glacier travel, spacing, stopper knots, tying-in.

 

Day 2

 

-Review walking on snow and ice slopes: kicking steps, flat foot, pied troisieme.

-Practice self arrest and holding the ice axe

-Learn and practice different snow and ice anchors: pickets, t-slots, dead man, bollards, ice screws, v-threads. 

-Crevasse Rescue: arrest a fall, build an anchor, transfer the load, assess fallen climber, padding the lip, hauling systems.

-Route finding, moraines, glaciers, exposed terrain, snow fields.

-Extra topics include: low impact camping, wildlife encounters, flora and fauna, first aid emergencies, mountain weather, human waste.

Note: Goals are flexible and will be tailored to the season and conditions at the field location.

 

Pre-requisites:

Good physical fitness. Previous mountaineering experience walking on snow. Top rope climbing experience indoors or outdoors. Basic belaying and knots.   

 

Equipment: Due to covid-19, it's best to have everything ready for the course.

-Harness,

-Helmet (climbing)

-Guide belay device

-Mountaineering boots 

-Crampons (fitted to boots)

-General ice axe (70cm)

-1 x 60cm Snow Picket

-1 x 19cm ice screw

-3 locking carabiners (pear shape)

-1 x double length sling (120cm)

-2 x cordalette (5m x 7mm cord)

-2 x carabiners (non-locking)

-1 microtraxion 

-Single Rope 8.7 - 9.0mm 60m

 

Waiver:

Please carefully read and understand the waiver below. Your guide will provide a waiver you are required to sign before participating. 

Waiver Form

 

Online Payment:

To register for this course, follow these steps:

(1) Click "Join this Trip" on the left side of the page. You will be added to the Waiting List
(2) Once on the Waiting List , click this link VMG and follow the prompts to complete your payment.
(3) Forward your confirmation email to courses@bcmc.ca and you will be added to the Confirmed List.
(4) Keep your eye on your email inbox for further updates.

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