Disillusion Peak lies just NW of Rexford. We will approach it from Centre Creek, climbing up Guardian Peak, and then up the East ridge of Disillusion. 

It is only 3.5km distance and 1200m elevation gain to the peak, but this trip is considerably more challenging than the distance suggests. It begins with 1.5km of thick bushwacking, including a crossing of Centre Creek (might need to get wet). We go then must go  up and over Guardian Peak. There are two appealing routes. One are the South Facing slabs -- this is then some nice scrambling and climbing (6ish pitches, mostly low 5th). The other option is the East Ridge of Guardian, which is supposedly mostly 4th class with a 5.10a hand jam crux. After Guardian, there is 350m of climbing on the East Ridge of Disillusion. Beckey describes it as "largely class 4, with short difficult class 5 steps and minor brush."

Moving efficiently is important for completing this trip, so efficient belay transitions, simul-climbing when appropriate, and efficiently transitioning between roped and unroped climbing will be important.

Beta:

• Map
• Beckey Cascade Alpine Guide Vol 3, page 171.
• My trip report for Guardian Peak
• Song's trip report for Guardian Peak
  

Meet at Chevron at Dominion & Boundary at 5am.