| Name: Guardian Peak South Face |
| Starts: Sat May 31, 2025 05:00 |
| Return: Sat May 31, 2025 22:00 |
| Registration opens: Mon May 26, 2025 |
| Event category: Rock Climbing |
| Difficulty grade: C5 [?] |
| For members only: No |
| Screening used: Yes |
| Max participants: 6 |
Organizer: Paul Schrimpf  |
| Profile info: |
What is your climbing and scrambling experience? Are there any similar climbs that you have done?
How are you at bushwacking? Have you done lengthy hikes off trail?
We will travel in rope teams of at most 3. Would be comfortable leading most or all of the route?
You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one. If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member. Some trips are BCMC members only.
Guardian Peak, near Mt Rexford, has large slabs on its South Face, about 500m wide and up to 350m tall. I've climbed Guardian a few times by connecting treed ledges with 1-2 pitches of slab climbing at a time. For this trip, I'd like to try climbing a more sustained line up the center of the slab. I expect the climbing to be moderate (<=5.8) and reasonably protected, but runouts and more difficult climbing are certainly possible.
The approach is from Centre Creek and takes about 1.5 hours. There is some bush and a creek crossing.
Participants should have some experience multipitch climbing, preferably in the alpine, and experience hiking off trail. Moving efficiently is important for completing this trip, so efficient belay transitions, simul-climbing when appropriate, and efficiently transitioning between roped and unroped climbing will be important. Preference will be given to people I've climbed with before.
Beta:
- Map
- Beckey Cascade Alpine Guide Vol 3, page 171.
- My trip report for Guardian Peak
- My report for Disillusion and Guardian
- Song's trip report for Guardian Peak
Meet at Chevron at Dominion & Boundary at 5am.
