About BCMC Events Schedule Club Forums Hut Booking News - Media Club Resources Search
Trip Information
Name: Mount Baker - North Ridge - AD, ice - NEW DATES
Starts: Sat Jun 21, 2014
Meetup: TBA closer to start of trip
Return: Sun Jun 22, 2014

Registration opens: Sat May 17, 2014
Event category: Mountaineering
Difficulty grade: D5  [?]
For members only: Yes
Screening used: Yes
Max participants: 6

Organizer: Don Montrichard
Profile info:
Trip Planning Questions

(1) What is the last mountaineering route that you have climbed or attempted?

(2) Can you build a haul system for crevasse rescue? Can you ascend the climbing rope following a fall into a crevasse?

(3) Are you able and willing to lead the ice pitches? Do you know how to competently belay a climber who is leading on gear?

(4) Can you drive to the trailhead? How many passengers (with their gear) can you take?

(5) Can you supply a tent? stove? rope? pickets?

(6) Bonus Question: Nevermind or In Utero?

Login to Join BCMC Trips

You must login in order to sign up online for one of the BCMC Trips. If you don't have a BCMC membership account then please obtain one.  If you'd prefer to learn more before joining then please join as a 30-day Guest member.   Some trips are BCMC members only.

Participant Information

See Alpine Select route #150: "One of the most popular north face ice climbs in the Cascades, with fine scenery, superb position and short-lived difficulties".

Weekend ascent of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge. Plan is to drive as high as possible up Glacier Creek Road on Saturday morning. From the parking spot, we will hike to the top of Heliotrope Ridge and bivy nearby. Early morning start on Sunday in order to traverse the Coleman Glacier, gain the lower section of the North Ridge, and then climb steep snow and several ice pitches to the summit. Descent to bivy sites via Coleman-Deming route.

The North Ridge includes two (or more) pitches of technical ice climbing (approx. WI2+ to WI3). The route also has inherent potential crevasse and rock/ice-fall hazards, as well as possibility of altitude-induced disorders.

Trip organizer will supply some of the group gear, including map, GPS, satellite messenger and first aid kit. Shared tents, stoves and ropes will be organized once the trip participants are finalized.

Each trip participant needs to provide his/her own: helmet, harness, steel crampons, ice axe, 2nd ice tool, belay/rappel device, crevasse rescue gear (pulley, carabiners, sewn slings/webbing/cord), warm & weatherproof clothing, enough food and hydration to stay on the move for 8-12 hours at a time.

We may also need snowshoes, depending on the conditions that weekend.

Evacuation- and medical-Insurance coverage for the United States highly recommended.

Don't forget to pack your passport!


  • please consider NOT seeking to join this trip unless you have conducted your own research into the route, and compared that with your own experience, fitness level and skill


  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions".
  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such).
  • logistics are self-organized - please use the Planning Forum attached to this trip page to organize rides to the meeting point.
  • Please update your BCMC Account Profile with your emergency contact information. To do that you have to login on the website, click the "My account" button at top right, then click on "edit profile information", then select the "private information" tab and enter your emergency contact information -- this info will stay in your profile and is made available to a trip organizer automatically -- it saves time at the meeting point.
  • if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
Other trips or events organized by this BCMC member
Don Montrichard Grade: D5 Start: Fri 22 Aug '14
M:4, C:4, W:1
A high traverse of the highlights of the Tantalus Range
Don Montrichard Grade: C-D 4-5 Start: Sat 2 Aug '14
M:4, C:3, W:0
Mountaineering in the Tantalus Range
Don Montrichard Grade: D5 Start: Sat 12 Jul '14
M:6, C:5, W:0
One of the easier routes up the north side
Copyright © 2022 British Columbia Mountaineering Club